Knit a candy swirl beret

This gorgeous pattern comes from Gillian Whalley-Torchkler’s fabulous new book, Hats to Knit.

Hats to Knits is the fabulous new knitting book by New Zealander Gillian Whalley-Torckler, which features 27 stylish patterns, from simple beanies and berets to more structured headwear. Quick and easy to complete, within a few hours you can be wearing something you made yourself.

Hats are the ideal project for knitters who want to use up odd balls of yarn (and what knitter doesn’t have a few tucked away!) They are also great for those who want to try knitting for the first time.

With Gillian’s guide to yarn weights making for easy substitution of wools, you can unleash your creativity with different colours and styles of yarns.

Hats to Knit by Gillian Whalley-Torckler, Bateman, RRP $34.99. Photographs by Darryl Torckler. Extracted with permission.

Candy Swirl Beret with ‘70s Flower Brooch

Knitted in the round / Level: Easy–Intermediate

The stitch pattern for this beret forms the swirls naturally and is very effective. I have used a simple knit one, purl one rib, but on the knit stitches, I have knitted into the back of each stitch, which creates a tighter finish for the rib and really highlights the rib pattern. The contrast between the plain-coloured, ribbed brim and the highly variegated yarn should be subtle. Choose a shade for the band from the variegation to minimise any clashing of colours.

FINISHED MEASUREMENT:
Head circumference 20½–23 in (52–58.5 cm). It is slightly stretchy.

NEEDLES:
US 3 (3.25 mm), 18 in (45 cm) circular needle and set of double-pointed needles; and US 6 (4 mm), 18 in (45 cm) circular needle

YARN:
Contrast colour: pure wool DK (8 ply), approx. 1 x 1¾ oz (50 g) skein

Main colour: variegated yarn (DK/8 ply), approx. 1 x 1¾ oz (50 g) skein

TENSION or GAUGE:
On US 3 (3.25 mm) needles, and knit one, purl one rib 10 stitches x 10 rows = 1½ in (4 cm), adjust needle size as necessary

Cast on 110 stitches loosely on a US 3 (3.25 mm) circular needle or double-pointed needles using the contrast colour (pure wool yarn):

Working on these stitches, knit in the round. Do not turn the needles, just keep going in the same direction, working on the right side of the work. Place a row marker, if using, at the end of the first round.

Work in single rib:
Rounds 1–14: k tbl, p1, repeat to the end

Switch to a US 6 (4 mm) circular needle and add in the main colour (variegated yarn):
You will have too many stitches to work on a set of double-pointed needles.
Round 15: *k1 contrast colour, k1 main colour*, repeat from *to* to the end
Round 16 (increase): *k1 contrast colour, kfb main colour*, repeat from *to* to the end (165 stitches)
Round 17: *k1 contrast colour, k2 main colour*, repeat from *to* to the end

Break off contrast colour and work in main colour yarn only from this point forward:
Round 18 (increase): *kfb, k2*, repeat from *to* to the end (220 stitches)

Start pattern:
Round 19: *k2tog, yo, k3*, repeat from *to* to last stitch. This stitch is part of the k2tog at the start of the next row. This repeating pattern is worked over 5 stitches. It is easier if you forget about rows and simply keep going with the pattern.

Repeat round 19 until work measures 4¾ in (12 cm).

Start decreasing for the crown:
Round 20 (decrease): *k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, k2tog, yo, k3*, repeat from *to* to the end of the round (198 stitches)
Round 21: *k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k3*, repeat from *to* to the end of the round
Round 22 (decrease): *k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog*, repeat from *to* to the end of the round (176 stitches)
Round 23: *k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat from *to* to the end of the round
Round 24 (decrease): *k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat from *to* to the end of the round (154 stitches)
Round 25: *k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat from *to* to the end of the round
Round 26 (decrease): *k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k2tog*, repeat from *to* to the end of the round (132 stitches)
Round 27: *k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k1*, repeat from *to* to the end of the round
Round 28 (decrease): *k2tog, yo, k3tog, yo, k1*, repeat from *to* to the end of the round (110 stitches)
Round 29: *k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k1*, repeat from *to* to the last stitch, slip this stitch onto the left-hand needle
Round 30 (decrease): *k3tog, yo, k2tog, yo*, repeat from *to* to the end of the round (88 stitches)
Round 31: *k2tog, yo*, repeat from *to* to the end of the round

Change to US 6 (4 mm) double-pointed needles:
Round 32 (decrease): k2tog, repeat to the end of the round (44 stitches)
Round 33 (decrease): k2tog, repeat to the end (22 stitches)

Break off yarn leaving 8–11¾ in (20–30 cm) tail. Using a darning needle draw tail through remaining stitches. Pull tight and feed through to the wrong side and tie off. Sew through the centre a few times, ensuring no gaps remain. Tie off and weave end of yarn into stitches on the wrong side.

‘70s Flower Brooch

Knitted / Level: Easy

This oversized ‘70s flower is double layered and dominated by the large button in the centre. I have used the same yarns as the beret (both DK). For optimum effect, I think the button should be the type with a shank at the back, not with a central hole. But be creative and prove me wrong!

NEEDLES:
US 6 (4 mm) straight or to double-pointed needles

YARN:
1/6 oz (5 g) variegated DK yarn
1/6 oz (5 g) plain color DK yarn

NOTIONS:
Large button 1½ in (4 cm) shank type
Large brooch clasp

To make the centre flower cast on 55 stitches using US 6 (4 mm) straight needles and the variegated yarn:

Row 1: knit
Row 2: p5, p1b, *p10, p1b*, repeat from *to* to last 5 stitches, p5
Row 3: k5, k1b, *k10, k1b*, repeat from *to* to last 5 stitches, k5
Row 4: as row 2
Row 5: as row 3
Row 6: as row 2
Row 7: (decrease): k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1b, *k2tog x 5, k1b*, repeat from *to* three more times to last 5 stitches, k2tog, k2tog, k1 (31 stitches)
Row 8: (decrease): p1, p2tog, p1b, *p1, p2tog, p2tog, p1b*, repeat from *to* three more times to last 3 stitches, p2tog, p1 (20 stitches)
Row 9: knit

Break off yarn, leaving a 8 in (20 cm) tail. Pull this tail through all remaining stitches on needles. Pull tight and tie off on the wrong side. Sew up the side edges to make a circle.

To make the outer base, cast on 40 stitches using US 6 (4 mm) straight needles and plain yarn:
Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl
Row 3: knit
Row 4: purl
Row 5: (decrease): k2tog, repeat to the end of the row (20 stitches)

Break off yarn, leaving a 8 in (20 cm) tail. Using a darning needle, pull this tail through all remaining stitches on needles. Don’t pull it tight, but pull it enough so that the diameter is big enough so that the flower can sit inside it. Tie off on the wrong side. Sew up the side edges to make a circle.

To finish:
Press the bottom circle and place the shaped flower on top of the flat circle. Sew these together at the center. Place the button in the center and sew into place.

Weave in loose ends on the wrong side and sew the clasp onto the back in the middle.